Why you really should make
your own chicken stock

January 11, 2009 · 9 comments

Oftentimes, after a social gathering, or simply a conversation with an acquaintance, I think to myself, why didn’t I just shut up already?

See, I have a tendency to become a bit belligerent when it comes to certain matters, most especially matters having to do with food. And it’s not for any reason other than the fact that I get really, really excited about food, and expect others to share my enthusiasm. It has a lot to do with the fact that, when I began cooking in my mid-20s, I was shocked by how relatively simple it was to make food from scratch. The results far outweigh the effort (most times). But my excitement can sometimes come across as somewhat militant, or even as proselytizing. I’m sometimes aware that it happens; my victim listener’s eyes start to wander, or their part of the conversation becomes limited to the word, “right,” implying agreement, but really being a plea for help from the nearest possible distraction. On rare occasion, I actually take notice that it’s happening, and I either attempt a bumbling apology, or plow forward recklessly, depending on the subject matter and whether or not I’ve had access to wine.

So let me start out with a disclaimer: making your own stock is not a moral issue. Your life will not necessarily improve with its making, but your soup most certainly will. I will not think less of you as a person (assuming I know you) if you continue to purchase canned broth. I still purchase it myself for emergencies, or for freezing in 1 Tbsp portions to quickly thaw when a recipe demands that miniscule amount. The first time you make it, it might seem not worth the effort. But make it a few times, and use it in your soup recipes, and I think you’ll start to see the light (strong words, but I am drinking a Terrapin India Brown Ale as I type this).

Here’s what you need:

  • 3 to 4 pounds chicken parts (bone-in, skin-on). I always use leg quarters (the leg with the thigh still attached), because they are the cheapest part, and I love dark meat (we will be using the cooked meat). That ends up being 4-6 leg quarters, depending on their size
  • 1 yellow onion, quartered pole to pole (you can leave the root attached)
  • 1 stalk celery, with leaves (see this post to find out how to store celery so it lasts longer), cut into (approx.) 2-inch chunks
  • 1 carrot, cut into (approx.) 2-inch chunks*
  • 1 dried bay leaf
  • a bunch of fresh parsley, if you have it
  • a fine-mesh strainer, preferably large and conical (this shape just makes things easier)

*If you happen to buy organic vegetables (and these varieties often cost about what conventional counterparts do, in my neck of the woods), you don’t even have to peel the carrots or onions. Just give the carrots and celery a good scrubbing

Here’s what you do. Put the chicken pieces in the bottom of a large dutch oven or stockpot (needs to hold at least 5-6 quarts). Fill with enough water to cover the chicken, plus about an inch. Put the pot on high heat, and cut up the vegetables while the pot comes to a boil. Add the rest of the ingredients, and add a little more water if necessary (just to cover — too much water will make a weak stock). Bring the water to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, and cook for about 45 minutes. I sometimes partially cover mine, to keep too much of the liquid from evaporating. Sometimes a piece of chicken will float to the surface, and if that happens just push it back down, or let it trade places with a piece on the bottom. As long as the liquid doesn’t come to a rapid boil (in which case, turn down the heat), you don’t have to do a thing.

After the 45 minutes, remove from heat, and using tongs remove the chicken to a large plate. You can let the stock and chicken cool a bit while you do other things. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, pull the meat off the bones (the meat comes off quite easily — but I will say that this task might be the one that I despise most in the kitchen; sometimes I can convince Tim to do it for me, and when he does, I know he loves me), place in an airtight container, and stick in the refrigerator. Once cool, you can transfer the meat to a ziplock bag and stick in the freezer. It’s ready to thaw for your next chicken casserole, enchiladas, chicken salad, etc. I just love killing two (or would it be 3?) birds with one stone.

The stock needs to be cooled quickly, and this might be where I lose a couple of you. I cool mine in an ice bath, which is just a nice way of saying “bucket of ice.” Take the biggest bowl you have, and put a lot of ice and a little water in it. Then set another, slightly smaller bowl in the ice. Put your fine-mesh strainer over the empty bowl, and ladle in your stock. The strainer catches all the veggies and any foam that accumulated. Discard the strainer contents. Now stir the stock every few minutes until it’s just lukewarm (rather than scalding hot). Cover tightly and stick in the refrigerator.

The next day, you’ll see a layer of fat that has solidified on the top. Skim that out with a spoon (discard, or freeze in small portions and use for cooking), and you have your stock. I ladle mine into a measuring cup, then pour it into a ziplock bag, in 1 or 2-cup portions (be sure you label and date the bag). The easiest way to freeze them is by stacking them flat on a cookie sheet, and putting the sheet in the freezer. Once frozen, you can retrieve your baking sheet, and your stock is frozen in nice, thin bags. When you need stock, just stick the bag(s) in the microwave for a couple of minutes. Once the ice is loose enough to remove from the bag, transfer to a glass bowl and finish defrosting (if you defrost comletely in the microwave, the bag tends to melt — and melted plastic in your food is creepy).

If you’ve made stock before, you might notice that I don’t add salt. This is just a personal preference of mine; this way, I always know that I’m starting from sodium-ground-zero in soups. I add salt to taste as I make the soup.

I can’t express enough how much homemade stock improves all cooking (I’ll borrow from my friend Cassia, and show you this sketch to illustrate how excited I can get about stock-making). It’s also delicious on its own (salt added) when you’re feeling under-the-weather, and I’m convinced has medicinal qualities in those cases.

Chicken stock is the easiest, most versatile stock to make (of the omnivorous varieties). I’ve never even attempted beef or fish stock — but I have a ziplock bag full of frozen beef bones ready to go on a maiden voyage. It’s considerably more time-consuming (most recipes say to simmer for 8 hours!), so I can’t see it becoming a regular in my kitchen.

But CHICKEN STOCK!!!! Really.

Lie to me, and tell me you’re gonna make it.

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{ 4 comments }

SK November 12, 2009 at 9:26 pm

Recently been man-crushing on Jaque Pépin after watching him de-bone an entire chicken in about two minutes. You end up with a beautiful, evenly-cooked chicken flesh that’s done roasting in about 30-45 minutes. Plus you end up with a whole carcass and giblets for some stock. Use his mustard-crusted chicken recipe. Tremendous: http://www.kqed.org/w/morefastfoodmyway/episode204.html

katy November 12, 2009 at 9:57 pm

Scott, I have tried at least three times to de-bone a chicken, and each time ended up with a road-kill carcass. I’ve been doing it via illustrations from Cook’s Bible and JoC, so maybe the video is the ticket.

erin from swonderland January 8, 2011 at 11:59 pm

you are funny. you can talk food in my face, it won’t freak me out.

Dana January 15, 2011 at 9:37 pm

Hey, me again. I feel like I’m stalking you. I just sat down with my India Brown to read this and found it interesting that you wrote this while drinking an India Brown. Terrapin, of course.
I’m not going to promise anything, but I am inspired to make some broth. I will let you know if I do.
I’ve been meaning to ask you for any tips on baby food. (?) Sorry if this isn’t the appropriate place. I though since I had your attention…
hope you and yours are well

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